Maybe Colombia isn't such a bad country to visit after all?

http://www.usatoday.com/travel/destinations/2006-03-15-colombia-tourism_x.htm

Bogota Traffic is a Bitch

It is true... this happens.

People call these horse-powered wagons "zorras".... which really means "female fox". Foxie is not a good word when translated to spanish. In spanish if you call a woman a fox you are calling her a whore. I am not sure why they call this wagons "zorras", though....

Good Eats

Hormigas Culonas. Metodo de Preparacion: "Se les quitan las paticas, las alas y el pico. Se tuestan un poquito en un tejo de barro y luego se fritan con manteca. Y se comen con salecita, ¡Virgen santísima!".

(Big-but ants). Cooking method: "You remove the little legs, the wings and the peak. You toast them a little bit in a clay oven and then you fry them in butter. You eat them with a little bit of salt. Holy Virgen!".

LOOK AT THE PICTURE IN THIS LINK http://axxon.com.ar/mus/info/040234.htm

Another map

Organizing info in English

Cool website for backpackers in Colombia: http://poorbuthappy.com/colombia/

1) TRANSPORTATION Flights from Bogota to Barranquilla, or from Bogota to Santa Marta are cheaper than flight from Bogota to Cartagena. Most probably because Cartagena is such a touristic city. Once you arrive to Barranquilla or Santa Marta use buses or public transportation to move around. DO NOT rent a car. It makes things more complicated and could make you a target. Cartagena is 2 hours from Barranquilla, and Santa Marta is 3 hours from Barranquilla by bus.

2) BARRANQUILLA Thye have a Carnaval in February. like from the 15th to the 27th. Unfortunately Darin and I cannot travel that early, but it is the 2d biggest Carnival in Latinamerica after the one in Rio de Janeiro, so if you can make it you should. I have been dying to go to it for a looooong time. Other than that is a big city... Darin and I met a girl from Barranquilla downtown while partying, so we might get more info on what is cool to do there.

3) CARTAGENA Beautiful walled city... lots of old things around. You'll find the architecutre similar to old Havana.

We could stay in Hostal "El Viajero" (Calle del Porvenir 35-68). Used to be a Spanish colonial house. Located in the downtown, within the walls. Drinks and breakfast are served in the patio.

Party city. Fer has friends that can show us around and he is known in many bars, so we can be treated very well and not pay cover :-)

Fer also has a contact to go diving to one of the Rosario Islands. He also recommended an island to go Scuba Diving. Fer recommends us to get certified for night diving. There is a place called "Acuario mio" that Fer say is really cool... many fish, all the time and also sunken boats. If not a hotel, then get an apartment in Cartagena. It is cheaper.Like $70000 pesos a night ($2700 pesos per dollar) and between two people is not that much.

Playa Blanca is supposed to be a backpackers-favorite place and one of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean. It seems we need to get adventurous to get there... and there is a chance we need to stay there over night. More info in this link: http://www.caribenet.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=37

Volcan de Lodo El Totumo is located between Barranquilla and Cartagena (mud volcano). So we can go swim in mud.

Mompos is like 1.5 miles in-land. It is said to be the most beautiful colonial town.

4) SANTA MARTA We can catch a public transportation in Santa Marta to go to the Parque Tayrona and Cabo de la Vela. Parque Tayrona is at the bottom of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. No cars go in it, they just get to the entrance. From then on, you walk. Camping gear is a very good idea :-) Fer recommended going to Playa RECIFE (or ARRECIFE) inside de Parque Tayrona. To get there, tell the truck driver to go through the road that goes from Santa Marta to Valledupar. The trucks leave from the Plaza de Mercado (Farmers MArket?) of Santa Marta. Once in the plaza, ask where the trucks that go to the Playa Recife in PArque? Tayrona are. People from other countries and students have a discount. Actually people from other countries have double-discount. Playa Recife has lockers and a small restaurant. But it is better to bring your own food and cook it yourself (that's why the camping gear is a good idea). We have to bring our own water. You can rent a hamac and sleep there. No mosquito problems because there is a quiosco (covered hut without walls) where you can hang the hamac and the breeze keeps the mosquitos away. Near by there is a "Little town" of a native indigenous tribe of the area: the Araucos. Fer has a friend with a house aroudn the base of the Sierra Nevada: Jose Luis Amaya (mapache3 at hotmail.com). The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is the highest peak next to a shore in the world, and home for the Aruaco tribe, which still lives there according to traditions. In a 5 day trip you can go to the Lost City of the Aruacos, which is up the mountain. It is said to be beautiful and totally non-turistic. But it is also dangerous because that are still has presence of para-militares. If you go to the Los City you HAVE TO go with a tour... the tour makes sure that nothing will happen to you... they have "understandings" with the military presence in the area. Still, Fer recommends to go to the "Little Town" in Parque Tayrona.... it is much better if you have little time. Cabo de La Vela is located north of Santa Marta, about 3 to 4 hours in truck (rented in the Santa Marta Farmers Market as well). Everybody says is gorgeous. It is supposed to show 7 different colors in the water. Cabo de La Vela is in the area of Colombia known as La Guajira. In that area do not get into arguments with anybody. My cousin recommended to do it in one day.. getting up early and returning to Santa Marta at night. Always take either the rented truck or a bus, do not rent a car. Fer recomended renting the truck in the Farmers MArket?. Pay when you get back, not in advance (so you are not left behind). Fer says that they have the best sea-food and it is very cheap.

Claudia's Cousin's Advice

Parque Tayrona

Playa RECIFE Entrar por carretera que va de Santa Marta a Valledupar. Salen de la plaza de mercado de Santa Marta. Preguntar de donde salen las camionetas que van a la playa de Recife, en el Tayrona. No tomar bus, sino la camioneta. Todo tiene que ser caminando, carros no entran. El extranejro y el estudiante tienen descuento. El extranjero tiene doble descuento. Ahi cerca hay el primer Pueblito Indigena. Playa de Recife tiene locker y un restaurantico. Lo mejor es llevar su comida y cocinarse uno mismo. Llevar agua, equipo de acampar. Hamaca la alquilan. Hay un quiosco alargado que cubre la zona de hamacas. Moscos no se pegan porque hay mucha brisa.

Aruacos >> Plan en burra son 3 dias de subida, y el mismo dia empiezan a bajar. La idea es subir lo mas rapido para quedarse un dia y medio.

Pero Fer recomienda mejor quedarse 3 dias en la playa Recife... y el pueblito indigena queda ahi no mas.

Barranquilla >> ciudad. No tiene nada especial.

Mejor llegar a Santa Marta o Barranquilla. Es mas barato que tiqute a Cartagena. De la entrada del rodadero en Santa Marta tomas un bus que te lleva en 3 horas a Barranquilla.

Cartagena >> Si vas a Cartagena, avisar a Fer para que tenga gente lista. Fer no tiene cover en ningun lado asi que eso vale la pena. Fer tiene un contacto en islas de Rosario para ir a bucear... alucinante, de otro planeta. Recuerden dejar un dia antes de devolverse. Quedense en esa isla una noche, porque igual es mas barato que hotel y es preciosa. Certifiquense para hacer buceo nocturno. "Acuario mio" es super chevere... muchos peces, todo el tiempo y hay barcos hundidos. Si no a hotel, mejor apartamento. Salen muy barato. Como $70000 pesos por noche, y entre dos personas pues no es mucho.

Cabo de la Vela >> Antes de llegar al Puerto del Cerrejon. Mar de siete colores. Siempre en autobus, nunca en carro. En la Guajira no le reviren a nadie.... calmados, sonrientes. Todo guajirense tiene una pistola en la mano. Para ir al Cabo de la Vela contratan a alguien en Santa Marta para que me lleven y me traigan. Temprano en la manana y volver en la tarde. Uno paga cuando uno regresa a Santa Marta. Se come marisco delicioso y baratisimo. No se paga nada antes, para que no los abandonen.